Avenue of the Giants – CA North
I can’t think of a better name for this long stretch of huge redwoods in Northern California. It doesn’t seem to be a widely-known destination, and perhaps this is simply because, along a lonely section of US-101, it’s mostly on the way from somewhere to somewhere else.
I’ve had the opportunity to visit it a couple of times, once by car/bicycle and once by motorcycle. It’s a compelling experience, even if you’ve “seen the redwoods” before.
It is the largest remaining stand of old-growth redwoods in the world. Although not as long-lived as the Sierra Sequoia redwoods, the coastal varieties still get past 2000 years of age.
HISTORY
From 1918, with the founding of Save the Redwoods League, all the way through the mid-1950’s, these redwoods and their critical watershed were under constant attack by logging interests, yet were successfully defended. I was amazed to learn that these spectacular trees were only a few years away from the sawmill, before conservation efforts — and many large donations — saved them for posterity. The Rockefellers alone contributed over $2M, not exactly small change in those days.
Acreage was increased dramatically to over 50,000 acres (almost 80 square miles), and the entire area designated as a State Park. Today, these incredible monsters are safe, hopefully forever.
In 1960, a US-101 bypass was constructed, and the original narrow, winding (sole) highway was re-named CA-254. This 31-mile stretch of wonder is now the Avenue of the Giants.
Deep in the grove, for mile after mile, the trees tower above the roadway. There are many, many places to stop and get out of the vehicle and just stand and stare, highly recommended. The sense of jaw-dropping wonder, and personal insignificance, are at times overwhelming.
GETTING THERE
Finding the Avenue is simple, but you do have to know it’s there. Signage is somewhat minimal. Get onto US-101 in California. You’re headed for a regions that is nearby to pretty much nowhere. If you look at a map, it’ll be about 15 miles inland, roughly halfway between the coastal cities of Fort Bragg and Eureka. Traveling on US-101 from the North, exit just south of Rio Dell; from the South, exit about 7 miles north of Garberville. There are many, many web sites providing information on access, features and treats, lodging, etc.
(avenueofthegiants.net is a good one.)
[NOTE: As I’m writing these words, CA and the rest of the world are just gradually loosening the Wuhan Virus lock-down restrictions. These will definitely have impacted businesses in the Avenue, but under normal conditions there is ample access to tourist stuff and lodging.]
By far, the best way to see this forest is — SLOWLY. Plan on at least several hours to stop and stare, take pictures, and soak up the majesty of these ancient trees. While you’re at it, take some time to appreciate the finer details, the smells and sounds of this wonderful getaway.
EEL RIVER
In addition to the forest itself, the roadway parallels the beautiful Eel River, a lovely destination in its own right. Along CA-254, there is frequent access to the riverbank for picnicking, kayaking, swimming, hiking, fishing, or just plain scenic gazing, my personal favorite.
These coastal redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens) are unique from the Sierra Giant Sequoias (Sequoiadendron giganteum). Despite the others’ “giant” namesake, the coastal trees are considerably taller (although more slender). Coastal redwoods routinely pass 300 feet, with the record-setter at 378. Their lofty reach for the coastal fogs make them the tallest trees in the world. The tallest ones are so high that it’s not possible to see their tops from the ground.
They have extremely thick bark, which is highly resistant to insects and fire. It’s part of the reason for their remarkable longevity.
During and after the 1849 gold rush, redwoods were logged almost to oblivion. Over 95% of them disappeared. Of the original TWO MILLION acres, stretching from Big Sur to Oregon, only about 100,000 acres now remain, which makes this grove all the more special.
It’s pretty much impossible to do these giants any justice in mere words. Sitting or standing next to one, even a relative “shrimp”, is the best way to get a true sense of the presence, the sheer being-ness, of these beasts. It can take a full minute just to walk around the base of one of them. Any time you’re planning a journey up US-101, this place is well worth a relaxing stopover.
We Aussies absolutely LOVE these Giant Redwoods and have visited often – partly for the thrill of photographing our huge truck beside these GIANTS!!! Insignificant?? Hell, yeah!! Greg and Karen, we head again into the Simpson Desert, following riverbeds for a month! It will be freezing at nights. Will let you know what we find! xx
Elizabeth,
I’m SO jealous. The desert(s) in winter are among my favorites, and I’d love to see the Simpson someday.
Travel safe…
G.
I’ve been there a half dozen or more times and each visit see something new although being away you don’t remember just how lovely and magnificent these trees really are.
I was fortunate enough to bring my children here when they were school agers and could appreciate the beauty of the trees. Most recently visited some seven or eight years ago to see their timeless beauty.
Good job
As always Greg, its a joy to see what you share. Would love a few more pics, but understand the remote limitations.
Thanks for sharing,
Gary
Austin , TX
Gary,
surprisingly enough, that’s about all the pix I have worth sharing. It’s amazingly difficult to get good shots under that canopy; dynamic range from shadow to bright is off the charts, and the angles are ridiculous. Sure is gorgeous in-person.
G.