Freezing cold in mid-July. And I mean freezing, 26F at mid-day. We might expect it up in the polar arctic, but not here just outside Fairbanks. But I’m getting ahead of myself a bit.

Surprisingly few roads radiate out from a hub the size of Fairbanks, and Chena Hot Springs Road is one of the shortest. At only 62 miles or so of good paved road, it’s just over an hour’s drive from the “big city” to the end of the road.

Like many of the roads we’ve traveled, this one is a pleasant drive through un-trammeled countryside. Occasional views of scenic vistas are interleaved with a glimpse now and then of the local wildlife. There are 24 miles of the road that are encompassed by the Chena River State Recreation Area, and it’s got access to all kinds of goodies.

Campsites abound (although we didn’t stay at any of them). The road winds along the river (or vice-versa?), so there’s always some river frontage to park alongside for a night.

Near a small pond, a moose was grazing with her calf, and we got to stop and watch them for a while. I don’t think the calf had it figured out that all that algae and grass was what turned into the milk he was waiting for. He wandered a little ways away, and she started to get antsy, so he rejoined her after a couple of minutes “exploring”. Gotta watch those young kids, you never know what they’ll be up to.

After a while, the Rec Area ended, and then private property took over, and there we were at the end of the road — a 62-mile driveway to the privately-owned Hot Springs.

It’s a large and fairly well-done resort, with various “activities” for the resident guests and visitors. Typical kinds of stuff: guided walking tours, the hot springs themselves, and a few unusual items as well. The old well-preserved log cabin and nearby wildflower collections are a few of the gems that are worth the trip.

The actual hot springs have been analyzed, and found to have significantly different mineral content than your typical run-of-the-mill hot spring. They are proud enough of the ingredients to post annual lists of minerals and percentage contents. This “magic ingredient” potion, along with peoples’ limitless willingness to believe in magic, has the springs reputed to be incredibly healthful.

For reasons that I didn’t fully understand, the Resort has become extremely popular with Japanese tourists, and they constituted maybe 60% of the people we saw around the grounds. Of course, there were other denominations as well – – –

We got a formal (paid) tour of the grounds, which included a run-down on their geothermal power-generation plant. It’s an innovative way to use low-temperature water (165-175F) to operate steam-like turbine engines. They do it with the same refrigerant that’s used in air-conditioners. There was other stuff to be seen and appreciated. They have a small reindeer herd (only 5, but they’re hoping….).

– – – and a wonderful garden. Like most stuff up here, growth is spectacular. This plot of three-foot-high vegetables is less than one month from seed-planting.

There’s the BBQ dragon, with its grill under the side flap door. The grill’s propane feed is also piped up to his snout, and he can really, really belch fire. Too bad, we couldn’t get a demo for the camera.

There’s also an impressive collection of antique farm and construction machinery, like this old Caterpillar bulldozer (a D-1?). Supposedly, there’s a project underway to get a lot of them actually functional – – but I’ll believe that when I see it.

But the big surprise at the Hot Springs was the Ice Museum. It didn’t really get my attention at first, but Karin insisted on a tour, and I’m really glad she twisted my arm. It turned out to be the high point of the visit.

There’s a young couple (Steve and Heather Brice) who do ice-carving full-time. Yes, really, for there are many competitions both in Alaska and around the world. They are six-times world ice-carving champions. And they maintain some carvings and displays in a specially-designed refrigerated house on the Hot Spring property. Voila, the Ice Museum. How could we NOT go see something like that?

First order of the day, in the ante-room, is to get bundled up. The tour provides huge parkas (one size fits all), and it’s hilarious because after enrobing, everyone looks the same. We walk around peering into hoods to see who we’re looking at.

Then, into the dimly-lit interior for a chilling 45 minutes. Of course, we’re cleverly dressed (under the parkas) for the 75F weather in Fairbanks…. Polo shirt and shorts. Incongruous at best. I show off my manliness to the woman with the clear skin.

One of the highlights is the Ice Bar, complete with reindeer-fur seats (keeps butts warm and ice cold). The “apple-tini” is served in a solid-ice martini glass, made on the premises. You are allowed to keep the glass, because (as she explains) “we couldn’t figure out how to wash them”.

The apple-tini glasses were made right while we watched, with an elegant combination of power-carbide-bit and sliding ways, then a quick propane-torch polishing. Raw material left, glasses to the right.

I asked Heather what made the place keep running, while they were off at a competition. She said that they had under-studies to hold the tours, but (special skills needed) they had to make up about 1,700 apple-tini glasses in advance to be away for a couple of weeks. Hours and hours of production-style work. (“Hey, honey, remember it’s ART”.)

Photographing the artwork is beyond difficult – – it’s clear, and light goes (duh) right through it. No amount of Paintshopping can make these any more visible. This particular work (nearly full-scale) is almost 10 years old, which is remarkable because even in the deep freeze, ice gradually evaporates. Steve and Heather spend a LOT of time repairing and maintaining the exhibits.

Inside the ice igloo, you can try your hand at the ice xylophone (it is actually in tune!).

Perhaps the most- and least-believable display of all was the hotel-room bed (sans mattress). Apparently, there have been several couples who have said their vows and tied the knot inside the Ice Museum (average ceremony duration 15 minutes). However, there is no known instance of the bed actually having been put to use.

Having no way to out-do the Ice Museum, we climbed into Ralph and headed home to Howie. Along the way, we caught a few bits of the Alaskan life style. Roadside shooting ranges, for example. No rangemasters, no regulated cease-fires, just a safe back-drop, some sturdy shooting stands, and a few buddies banging away at impromptu targets.

Then, of course, there’s the roadside scenery.

Lots of new things seen, 120 miles driven – – nice way to spend a day. Life is good.