Two large doe mule deer walk by about twenty steps away. Karin and I admire their beauty and grace as we watch them through Howie’s side window. Out the front windows, only fifteen steps from us, is the precipice of the Grand Canyon. We are camped on the Edge. Above us, the wind sighs through the tree tops; it is easy to mistake the sound for the ocean’s surf.

In the distance, far below us, is the formation called the Cockscombs (for its resemblance to a rooster’s head-dress). This undulating series of bulges in the strata remind me and Karin more of a sea monster, but oh well, they didn’t ask us when it was named.

We are on the high plateau of the Kaibab Forest, just above the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Our view point is actually on the East Rim, and we can see a couple of thousand square miles of the terrain surrounding the Colorado River and the beginning of the Canyon it created. The plateau on which we perch is above 8,500 feet, with current temperatures at 60F/35F day/night. As we drove down from Jacob Lake at AZ89, we traversed some of the most gorgeous mountain meadows, huge swaths of near-level grassy areas between the solemn forests on each side. Bands of grazing deer were scattered across the meadows.

To say we are delighted with our camp is the understatement of the day. We have been here before (October 2012), and are this time no less mesmerized by the beauty, the solitude, and the privilege of being here. If you are hugely curious, you can spot our camp on Google Earth: follow AZ67 south from Jacob Lake until you get to DeMotte campground. Then go another half-mile and turn left on forest road 611. Follow this for seven miles, past the East Rim Viewpoint, and that’s where we are. For the very precise among you (I know you’re out there): 36:26:17 by 112:04:46 and 8,815 feet.

Last time here, we traveled with our motorcycle Papoose slung on Howie’s back. This time, Ralph will be able to provide a huge increase in comfort and versatility. We expect to be able to explore much further, and into more rugged terrain if we find it.

Sounds exciting, huh? Well, calm down, because tomorrow is laundry day. Such chores intrude into all of our lives, and it just proves that even nomadic life on the road has its occasional dull spots. But we’ll be doing laundry at the North Rim visitor’s center, so there ought to be stuff to keep us occupied while the drier is spinning.